Equipment and Techniques
enable you to do your work well. ‘A bad workman always blames his tools’ is an
old quotation; however, we believe ‘You need the right tools to do a good job’.
Don’t be tempted to think that ‘cheapest is best’ even if you are just buying a
brush and comb for your pet. If you buy good-quality products they will, with
correct use, last you a long time and produce the results required.
BRUSHES
In general for all coat types except smooth coats, a slicker brush (Fig. 2.1) is the
most useful tool. Always be aware when purchasing a new slicker that the pins
will be quite hard and will need to be ‘worn in’. Over-use of the slicker brush can
cause abrasion of the skin known as ‘slicker burn’ or ‘brush burn’. This can potentially
lead to more severe skin problems as the dog will lick and chew the affected
area, and secondary infection could follow. Therefore correct usage of the brush is
important.
Hold the brush lightly and place the fingers as shown in Fig. 2.2. Holding
the brush in this way decreases the chance of slicker burn. Always brush from
the bottom layers of the coat outwards to ensure that you are getting down to
the bottom of the coat (Fig. 2.3) and not just brushing over the topcoat and
neglecting the undercoat. This is particularly important for coat types Dc1, Dc2
and Wo.
In breeds such as the Lhasa Apso (Ut-Dc2) and Old English Sheepdog (Pa-Dc2),
which should have a long coat for show purposes, a slicker brush is not appropriate
because the brush will break and tear the coat. For the correct maintenance of
the coat texture of these coat types, a pin or bristle brush should be used (Fig. 2.4).
These brushes are much softer than the slicker, but a great deal of practice
is required to use them correctly otherwise the coat will not be groomed to the
skin.
For smooth-coated breeds, a rubber brush or glove is an excellent tool for
removing the dead undercoat and creating a shiny top/outer coat (Fig. 2.5).
COMBS
A good general-purpose comb is one of medium length with medium width teeth
at one end and finer teeth at the other. This comb will suit all coat types except
for smooth coats. Smooth coats require very little combing although a flea comb
is useful for getting out those ultra-fine dead hairs. For longer coats, e.g. in
Bearded Collies (Pa-Dc2) or Afghan Hounds (Ho-Si), you may find that a wider,
longer tooth comb is more useful to get down to the bottom of the coat (Figs 2.6
and 2.7).
Always ensure that you have thoroughly brushed the coat before using the
comb, as the comb will pull the tangles and cause discomfort to the dog (Figs 2.8
and 2.9).
Imagine grooming your own hair – brush first to remove tangles and then comb
through to ensure completely knot-free hair.
DE-MATTING TOOLS
Various de-matting tools are available on the market (Fig. 2.10) but the one
favoured by many professional groomers is the ‘Mikki Mat Breaker’. When using
de-matting tools remember that the teeth are blades and can cut skin. Always use
the de-matter to break through knots, not to rip them out. In severely matted coats
you can try to brush open the mats first and then ease the de-matter through, and
then brush again to remove the knots. Take care around the ears, especially in
breeds such as the Cocker Spaniel (Gu-Si), as it is very easy to tear the skin in this
area. If the mats are very close and tight to the skin then no de-matting tool will
remove them. It will be much safer for the dog if you use a clipper (Fig. 2.11) to
remove these mats, thus eliminating the chances of injury.
COAT KINGS
Coat Kings are a relatively new product on the market (Fig. 2.12). These tools are
proving to be an invaluable addition to the professional dog owner/groomer’s
toolbox. They come with a range of replaceable blade sizes from 6 to 33 blades.
There is a selection of mini and jumbo blades. The wider teeth can be used for
thinning out coats of breeds from the Dc1 group, the medium sizes are most useful
for silky coats which have become fluffy, and the narrow teeth tools are most
useful for wire coats, aiding hand-stripping. However, take care not to over use
this tool or you may remove too much coat.
STRIPPING EQUIPMENT
Hand-stripping is a technique which should be used on wire coats and some silky
coats to maintain the correct coat texture and colour. Examples of breeds this
applies to are Airedale Terrier (Te-Wi), Giant Schnauzer (Wo-Wi) and Irish Setter
(Gd-Si).
Using the finger and thumb is the best stripping method (Fig. 2.13): it is readily
available and ensures that there is no cutting of the coat.
There is a huge variety of stripping knives (Fig. 2.14), although the term ‘knife’
is something of a misnomer as they should not cut the coat but just act as an aid to
hand-stripping.
Other products that are required for stripping a coat are:
• Chalk (Fig. 2.15) or powder to get a better grip of the coat.
• Stripping stones (Fig. 2.16) that aid in pulling the coat or scraping out (or carding)
the dead undercoat.
• Rubber finger covers (Fig. 2.17), which also help to get a grip on the coat. Even a
pair of household rubber gloves will do – just cut the fingers off!
When hand-stripping keep the skin tight to ensure that the dog is comfortable during the
procedure.
The aim of hand-stripping is to remove the dead topcoat and dead undercoat.
Always remember to assess the coat to ascertain which hairs need to be removed.
CLIPPERS
Many makes and models of clippers are available (Figs 2.18–2.22) to buy depending
on your specific needs. Most professional groomers will choose a clipper with
a range of detachable blades.
Clippers are available in single speed, two speed or variable speed; also there
are many cordless clippers. It is important when choosing a clipper to feel the
weight and comfort of the hold in your hand; what suits one person may not suit
another. For the pet market, there are clippers available with a blade with variable
depths.
Recommended maintenance of clippers
To maintain your clipper:
• Brush the loose hair away from the moving parts on a regular basis –
sometimes you may need to do this during the clipping process if you are
working on a very thick coat.
• Professional servicing should be done every six months to one year depending
on the use and general care.
• The flex should not be wound around the clipper as this will lead to fractures
and failure.
• Clippers should never be dropped, and they should not be stored in a damp
environment.
Using clippers
When using a clipper you need to practise manoeuvring your wrist and arm in a
wide range of angles. A clipper is used for clipping not only the animal’s body but
also delicate areas such as ears and groin, so it is important to be flexible and
confident while clipping. When holding the clipper try to keep your thumb on top
(Fig. 2.23a, b), as this will reduce the strain on the wrist. Keep the hand fairly low
down and spread the fingers to balance the weight easily.
Allow the clipper to do the work. Do not force the blade through the coat as this
will damage the blade, mark the coat and put pressure on your hand and wrist.
Clipping a clean coat will help with this. When dealing with a dirty coat a little
pressure may be required. Keep the blade flat on the coat and do not dig the blade
in (Fig. 2.24), as this will cause clipping ridges and possible damage to the skin in
the more sensitive areas.
to help get a better grip on the hair but care must be taken not to use these excessively
as they could block the ears.
TOOLBOX
It is most useful to keep all your tools and equipment together for easy access and
organisation. A purpose-made toolbox can be used (Fig. 2.47) or you could investigate
your local do-it-yourself store for a cheaper option. Grooming trolleys may
also be useful in the salon.
When clipping the body coat, there is only one straight line and that is the line
down the spine. The rest of the clipping follows the ‘flow of the coat’ and the
shape of the dog. When you begin to clip make the line down the spine your first
line and then overlap the edges so that no bumps or ridges are left. Be aware of
the natural seam at the base of the ears and around the dog’s neck where the
hair growth changes direction (Figs 2.25 and 2.26). If clipped incorrectly this area
can look bald and ruin the overall finish. When working around the rib area,
clip in sweeping lines (Figs 2.27 and 2.28) and do not dig in the blade as you will
leave lines.
Most body clipping is done following the direction of growth of the coat but the
blade can be reversed in some instances, particularly during head trimming. (This
is covered in the guidelines for individual breeds, see Chapter 11). Finally, to
achieve a good finish with the clipper, lightly brush or comb the coat against the
growth (Fig. 2.29) and re-clip. This will ensure a smooth even finish.
BLADES
Blades come in a huge range of sizes depending on the clipper you choose.
Detachable blades are commonly used by professional groomers who need to clip
a variety of breeds and many styles. Some makes of blades can be interchanged
between clippers. However, the best practice is to buy matching clipper and
blades to ensure best performance.
Blades must be kept clean, sharp and oiled to gain the best finish on a coat.
If blades are used on ‘rough’ or ‘dirty’ coats they will become blunt much
sooner. Most blades are made of several metal or ceramic components that
need to be kept free of hair. If hair gets caught between the teeth, the blade will not
clip through the coat. To clean and oil the blades, carefully push the two blades
apart and, using a small brush such as a toothbrush or tinting brush, remove any
hairs. Blades can be oiled either by drop oil or they can be sprayed with a modern
complete care product at regular intervals during working to keep them cool,
lubricated and disinfected. These products are easy to use and convenient.
Always hold the clipper with the blade on in a downwards direction and spray
the specialist product on the working blades in the channels between the two
plates of the blade. Stop the clipper after a few seconds and wipe off excess oil
with a soft blade cleaning cloth. If you are working on a dirty or matted coat
you may need to carry out this process more frequently, as the blade has to
work harder.
When using blade washes never leave blades in the wash for more than a few
minutes. Always wipe off any residue and dry the blade. To avoid blade pitting or
corrosion use drop oil before storing or using the blade. Failure to do this can
result in rusting of the blade and may shorten the life span of the blade. Blades
will keep a better edge if used on only clean, mat-free dogs.
Blades with broken teeth are dangerous and should never be used, as such
blades could cut or graze skin. Blade sharpening and tensioning should always
be carried out by a professional. Blades should not be taken apart and selfsharpening
may not prove successful. Try not to drop your blades as this will
almost certainly knock out the balance and occasionally break the teeth. Always
store the blades in a waterproof blade caddy to prevent rusting (Fig. 2.30).
Fig. 2.31 shows a range of blade maintenance products.
While clipping you must remain aware of the temperature of the blade as it can
get hot very quickly, especially in the summer. If a blade is hot, blunt or dragging
through the coat then ‘clipper rash’ may occur. Clipper rash, which is a reaction
to clipping, results in the dog’s skin becoming irritated and sore. It can also
be caused by using too fine a blade for the dog’s skin. Sometimes you might
not be aware of clipper rash developing while you are clipping as the reaction
occurs later.
The blade sizes in this book are those present in the most commonly used
clippers: Oster, Wahl, Laube and Andis.
COMB ATTACHMENTS
These plastic, snap-on combs clip over a fine blade to give a much longer cutting
length. They come in a wide range of sizes and can be useful for quick styling.
However, the overall finish is much better with scissors or thinners, although
many professional groomers find them invaluable. Their use is more successful
on clean, blow dried coats.
SCISSORS
Many sizes and types of scissors are available for grooming. The three main types
are: straight, curved and thinning scissors. It is most useful to have a small pair
of scissors for delicate areas, i.e. around ears and feet, a long pair for general
scissoring and if your dog’s coat requires blending or thinning, a pair of thinning
scissors.
Scissors are a very individual tool as the size and make you will use will greatly
depend on their suitability for your hand. All our hands are different and therefore
one pair of scissors may feel comfortable and balanced in your hand but not
in someone else’s. If you are left-handed you may not necessarily need lefthanded
scissors. Most suppliers will let you handle scissors before you buy any to
check that they are right for you. As scissoring is the most important technique to
master in grooming it is essential to have what you feel is the best pair of scissors
for you.
Scissors come in a range of sizes (Figs 2.32 and 2.33) shapes and prices, but in
this instance the more expensive the better. Start your scissors collection with a
pair of good all-round scissors, costing approximately £30–40. Then as you
become more confident and proficient, build your collection to suit different
scissoring needs. A pair of excellent finishing scissors may be expensive but
worthwhile.
The metal that scissors are made from and their cutting edge define whether the
scissors will be suitable for trimming thick coats or for finer finishing work.
Always seek advice before purchasing scissors. Scissors must be cared for and
stored correctly. A variety of scissor pouches (Fig. 2.34) are available and only one
pair should be stored in one pouch. Scissors should not be stored on their tips in a
container as this could damage them.
Scissors should never be dropped; if you do drop them get them professionally
serviced. Scissors should only be serviced and sharpened by a competent professional.
Expensive, top-quality scissors need precision sharpening and servicing.
Make sure your technician is competent and understands your requirements. If
you are left-handed or have any hand/wrist problems you must tell the technician
so they can make sure the servicing accommodates your (the operator’s)
needs. Oiling and cleaning your scissors is essential to maintain maximum performance.
Carefully run a little oil over each blade and around the pivot to keep
the parts moving freely. Fig. 2.35 shows the different parts of grooming scissors.
Remember to wipe the blade clean before using. Take care! Professional scissors
are extremely sharp.
Using scissors
Flexibility and control are vital when using scissors to achieve the preferred
smooth, even finish. Balancing and holding the scissors in your hand takes practice
but practise you must! Practise holding the scissors as follows:
• Balance them across your hand (Fig. 2.36) and insert the end of the third finger
in the finger hole.
• Rest the little finger on the finger rest and balance the middle and index fingers
on the shank. The scissors should sit here, quite balanced and steady.
• Insert the end of the thumb into the other finger hole (Fig. 2.37). The thumb does
not hold the scissors but it operates them.
• Practise just manoeuvring the thumb to operate the blades.
Scissor exercises
As groomers, we rarely cut in a straight line and thus we need to practise how to
use scissors to the best advantage. The following exercises may be of help to you
in using your scissors.
Hold your arm straight down by your side (Fig. 2.38), and, while moving the
thumb in a scissor action, bring your arm up keeping the shoulder level and
the scissors parallel to the floor with the wrist in a relaxed position (Fig. 2.39).
Imagine trimming around different shapes, e.g. squares and circles; this will help
develop dexterity. Concentrate on keeping the scissors level and even (Figs 2.40
and 2.41). A groomer skilled in the use of scissors trims with the whole of their
body and not just the arm. Therefore you must learn to balance from the feet
upwards and twist and bend your body (Fig. 2.42) to see the correct trimming
line. When one first starts scissoring it is very difficult to stop ‘bouncing’ the
scissors, which results in a choppy finish. To reduce this problem remember to
open the scissors wide and move the thumb smoothly (Fig. 2.43).
In conclusion, scissoring is an art form, which takes time to achieve. Don’t
expect instant results; few people are naturally born to scissor and remember
practice makes perfect.
NAIL CLIPPERS
There are basically two types of nail clippers: guillotine or scissors/pliers
(Fig. 2.44). The choice is entirely yours.
The clippers come in different sizes to match nail sizes and if you are intending
to become a professional groomer, you may require more than one pair. This will
be apparent when you come across a nail that has twisted right round (corkscrew
nail) and cannot be trimmed with guillotine or blunt pliers. A point-ended nail
clipper will be necessary here but great care must be taken to ensure the pad is not
damaged. Which ever type of nail clipper you decide on, correct usage is most
important (see Chapter 3).
EAR CARE
Whether you are a pet owner or professional groomer, ear care is an essential
part of the grooming process. The tools required are finger and thumb, and bluntended
tweezers or artery forceps (Fig. 2.45) to remove any hair growing in the ear
canal. (Fig. 2.46) (see Chapter 3 for the ear care procedure). Powders can be used
RESTRAINTS
It is important while working on a dog to have control, whether in a pet, show or
professional situation. There are various methods of restraint from neck collars to
belly straps and muzzles (Fig. 2.48). However, the best method of control is to
build a confident relationship with the dog.
When using restraints, consider the dog’s temperament, age and health condition.
If tethering a dog never leave it unattended on a workbench or table as the
dog could try to jump and thus hang itself.
Professional groomers most commonly use nylon restraints, as they dry easily
if they get wet and can be cut through quickly if the dog twists itself around it.
Muzzles must be used with respect for the dog. Most dogs that bite have a genuine
reason to do so, e.g. they are nervous or in pain. There are very few evil dogs
out there!
A Halti can also be used as a restraint but one person will be required to hold
the head end, so they are not much use if you are working on your own.
GROOMING TABLES AND WORK STOOLS
Choosing a grooming table is a most important point to consider. What do you
need from it? There are basically three types of table:
• Electric (Figs 2.49 and 2.50)
• Hydraulic
• Static (Fig. 2.51)
If you are grooming only your own dog then a static table would be the cheapest
option for you. However, if you are considering a career in grooming then an
adjustable height table (Fig. 2.50) will suit your needs better. The table must be
steadfast and have a non-slip surface to ensure the dog’s safety and comfort.
Many tables come with a holding frame, which is essential for the professional
groomer.
Grooming stools (Fig. 2.52) can be of great benefit. You will usually stand to
trim your dog but just resting on a stool can help alleviate the pressure in your
back and legs.
OILING EQUIPMENT
Equipment of all types should be kept cleaned and oiled or greased according to
the manufacturer’s recommendations. In a salon situation, rusting can be a serious
issue. A dehumidifier is a good investment and can lengthen the life span of
equipment.
STERILISATION
Ultraviolet (UV) sterilisation is by far the preferred method. It is good practice to
sterilise each item after every dog, particularly if an animal gives the groomer any
reason to suspect that something contagious could be present. At the very least,
equipment such as brushes, combs, forceps and any other direct-contact equipment
should be sterilised at the end of each working day. If spray-on sterilisation
fluid is used the equipment must be dried completely and then oiled to prevent
rusting.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Many pet owners or professional groomers may enjoy adding bows or perfumes
as finishing touches (Fig. 2.53) to their neat and clean dog. There are many accessories
readily available to buy. A patterned collar and lead could be all you need,
or in extreme cases tiaras, t-shirts or even bandanas. Whatever finishing touches
you choose, try to remember that the dog is a dog and not a doll for dressing up.
